Chapter 17 · Knots, ropes, and lashingsKnots for tying to objects
Chapter 17 · Knots, ropes, and lashings

Knots for tying to objects

3 min read

In this section (5)
  1. Clove hitch
  2. Round turn and two half hitches
  3. Timber hitch
  4. Cow hitch (lark's head)
  5. Cleat hitch

Clove hitch

What it is for: quickly tying a rope to a post, a stick, or a railing, and starting or finishing log lashings. It is easy to adjust and to release.

In red: what you move in this step. Whatever passes behind the post is hidden.
Step 6 of 6

Tighten. Check: you see an X on the front of the post, and the standing part and the end leave in opposite directions from under the cross. If it will stay for hours, secure it with one or two half hitches around the standing part.

  1. Take one turn around the post with the working end.
  2. Cross over the first turn, diagonally.
  3. Take another turn around the post in the same direction.
  4. Tuck the working end under the diagonal (the cross) and tighten. The standing part and working end come out in opposite directions beneath the cross.
Figure 17.8. Clove hitch around a post.

The clove hitch can come loose by itself if the post rotates or if the load changes direction. For anything that will stay for hours, secure it with one or two half hitches on the standing part.

Round turn and two half hitches

What it is for: tying a loaded rope to a post, tree, ring, or eyebolt (for example, a boat to a post or a tarp to a tree). The round turn takes the force while you tie the hitches, and it unties even after carrying a load.

In red: what you move in this step. Whatever passes behind the post is hidden.
Step 6 of 6

Slide the hitches up against the post and tighten. Check: two matching hitches side by side and plenty of tail.

  1. Take a round turn around the post: wrap it once and a half.
  2. First half hitch: pass the working end around the standing part and through the loop that forms.
  3. Second half hitch the same way, in the same direction (together they form a clove hitch on the standing part).
  4. Slide the hitches against the post and tighten.
Figure 17.9. Round turn and two half hitches.

Timber hitch

What it is for: tying a rope to a log or bundle to drag or lift it, and starting the diagonal lashing. It comes loose by itself when you remove the load.

  1. Go around the log with the working end.
  2. Pass the working end around the standing part.
  3. Twist the working end around its own rope (the part that goes around the log) three or more times, in the direction of the rope's lay.
  4. Pull the standing part until the hitch grips the log. To drag a long log, add a half hitch farther along the log so it pulls straight.
Figure 17.10. Timber hitch around a log.

Cow hitch (lark's head)

What it is for: fastening a rope loop, a sling, or the bight of a rope to a bar, a ring, a handle, or a log: hanging a bag, attaching a sling to a tree, tying on tags. Quick and with no ends, but it slips if pulled from one side only.

  1. Pass a bight behind the bar (or through the ring).
  2. Pass the two ends (or the rest of the loop) through the bight.
  3. Tighten against the bar.

Cleat hitch

What it is for: tying a boat or a launch to the cleat (the metal fitting with two horns) on a dock or on the vessel. It is made and released in seconds, even under tension.

  1. Take the rope first to the farther horn and make one full turn around the base.
  2. Cross over the top diagonally to the other horn, pass under it, and return diagonally: it forms a figure eight or an "X" over the cleat.
  3. Finish with a half hitch: make a loop with the working end underneath, place it over the horn, and tighten. The working end ends up parallel to the last diagonal.
  4. Do not pile on turns. If you have to release quickly, a single figure eight and the half hitch are enough.
Figure 17.11. Cow hitch around a bar and cleat hitch seen from above.

For more on boats and water safety, see chapter 13.